An Aspirational Salsa

Salsa Cruda de Alta Baja: A Tribute to California’s Central Valley Peppers

The stifling heat of the Central Valley will damn near kill ya and if it doesn’t do that it’ll piss you off for sure. The oppressiveness eases a bit as you approach the Sierra foothills or meander your way toward the coast, but truth be told the anvil of Visalia is where the hammer of the California sun falls blow after blow and it’s not much fun to be at the convergence of the two. But there is hidden royalty here during the height of the summer growing season and it’s not located in the halls of power or within any abode made by humankind.

In home gardens all along what was once called The Road of Kings, which runs north/south through the region, live the true bluebloods of the area. These lofty inhabitants hide on trellis and vine, passively yet earnestly awaiting the moment to reveal their true calling like a banished monarch returning to a stolen throne.

This is the great Central Valley pepper, of which there are more varieties than can be counted, although they all have one thing in common. As they wait in the anteroom of the season they conspire brattily with Mother Nature whether to be hot or sweet or both or neither. Their negotiation is a testament to the moment when sun hits water and plant collides with palate.

One of the great tributes to this venerated citizen is the wide array of homemade salsas purveyed by families throughout the region. They range from pungent and spicy to almost Midwest in their mildness but they all have a certain sense of being alive in the moment even if they are canned in the all-too-familiar mason jar.

Every preacher of this condiment gospel has their own secrets and techniques, there is nothing new in the need to strut. So it is here with various concoctions being gifted during the grilling season, all given with deep graciousness coupled with just a dash of one-upmanship.

To me a perfect aspirational salsa cruda intended for beef has three components. The first is fresh peppers, onions and tomato that come from a family garden somewhere and are at the peak of their suitability for the task. The next is just a bit of dried Anaheim Chile, toasted in a pan, very briefly steamed the crushed and added to the above mixture. The final ingredient is rustic olive oil, preferably infused with a bit of rosemary and garlic to give it some background flavor.

In the end it should be a perfect blend of pico de gallo, chimichurri and salsa de acete. The oil helps coat the meat with flavor and keeps the ingredients from falling off.

I consider this an “aspirational salsa’ recipe. If I could transport myself back in time to a Rancho during the Californio period I’d like to think there would have been one person that really had it figured out, making something along these lines as meat was grilled outdoors and families gathered. So here’s my contribution to the dance at hand, Salsa Cruda de Alta Baja.

You’ll need-

Salsa Cruda de Alta Baja Recipe

Ingredients:

• 3 medium Roma tomatoes – not too ripe
• 1 large red onion – sweet and pungent
• 2 medium jalapeño peppers
• 2 dried Anaheim chiles
• 1 small bunch of cilantro
• Kosher salt (to taste)
• Hearty olive oil
• Minced garlic (to taste)
• Fresh lemon juice

Instructions:

1. Prep the Base:

   • Finely chop the onion and tomatoes and place them in a bowl.
   • Squeeze a bit of fresh lemon juice over the mixture.

2. Roast the Peppers:

   • Heat a cast iron skillet with a small touch of olive oil.
   • Once smoking, add the jalapeños and roast for 2 minutes.
   • Add the dried Anaheim chiles and toast for another 1-2 minutes.
   • Turn off the heat and immediately add 1 tablespoon of water.
   • Cover the pan quickly to steam the dried chiles for a couple of minutes.

3. Chop & Blend:

   • Remove the jalapeños, mince them finely, and add them to the bowl.
   • Place the dried Anaheim chiles in a food processor and grind them into small pieces (not a powder or paste).
   • Mix the jalapeños and ground chiles into the bowl.

4. Season & Finish:

   • Add minced garlic (but not too much).
   • Add salt to taste.
   • Stir in 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil (or more if you prefer).
   • Finally, mix in the cilantro and let the salsa sit until ready to serve.